Fall brings dust and festival season to the Kathmandu. Though Hinduism is the most common religion, many of the most colorful and extravagant festivals are those of the Newari people, original inhabitants of the Kathmandu valley. In September, I head South to New Road and the city’s Durbar Square to see the festivities. The square, which in reality winds around like an arc is roped off by police, and all remaining round is filled by people.
After winding my way through the Thamel tourist district, and through the market streets to the city’s center, I make my way through a cramped courtyard with seated masked dancers called Lakhay await their performances, and take photos with excited festival-goers.
People are stacked like dominoes on the remains of the large temple structures felled by the 2015 earthquake. People are playing Newari instruments, and dancing and clapping in circles in the square. Everyone is waiting to see the new Kumari, the latest child chosen to play the role of the living goddess, emerge from Hanuman Dhoka Palace and be paraded through the square on a large wooden chariot.
As the start of the festival draws nearer, I climb on the ruins of a temple to get a birds-eye view of the activity. helping hands pull me up to a precarious perch, and I am able to see below me the large wood chariots where the Kumari will ride, seemingly floating in the packed crowd below. I can now see people are also packed on the rooftops of all the buildings around the square.